the20 Spices Up a Stale SF Vintners Market

We swirled our glasses through the San Francisco Vintners Market in October- a little lazily, a little indifferently- and not too impressed with the selection of local offerings. Our taste buds perked a little when we came across the chocolate truffle booth. (Snore.) Our buds finally got a treat, however, when we stumbled upon the20- a new wine on tap pioneer providing wines in custom casks.

The20 is offering classic bag-in-box wine technology with some seriously innovative upgrades. First and most importantly, they’re tapping wines carefully selected to give the quality you’d expect from any premium wine in the bottle. We tried the Jubilation Zinfandel, the Darkhorse Pinot Noir, the Unrequited Sauvignon Blanc, and the DeNovo Bastille (a bordeaux blend). We were excited about all and absolutely loved the Jubilation Zinfandel.

the20's innovative wine cask made from recycled ammo cases

Secondly, they’re serving their wines through innovative and damn good looking casks. No cardboard boxes and plastic taps here. Wine casks come in the classic, unassuming oak with personalized sidebars or funky, refurbished army ammo cases that couple as a fridge chiller.

The20 started with a couple of wine country locals who had a vision for a healthy planet and exciting wines. Not to mention, we loved the staff! Friendly, unassuming, and unpretentious wine lovers focused on the bigger picture.

the20 wines are available through their website and are also popping up in restaurants and bars throughout the country. There is also an option to join their wine club. The best part is that this technology allows a 20-50 percent discount from the price you would pay if found by the bottle. www.the20wines.com

And with that, we swirl our glasses to the best booth of the SF Vintners Market and best cask wine we’ve tried on the market.

N2 Wines sets a standard for wine on tap excellence

First impressions are everything, and wine on tap is still on a first impression basis for many. As an emerging market and one battling the stigma of bad wine kegging practices of the 1970’s and poorly boxed white zinfandel, wine on tap is still on the upward climb before it is embraced as a wine drinking norm. Thanks to the diligence and commitment of wine on tap pioneers like N2 Wines founder Jim Neal, however, a standard of excellence has been set, and wine on tap is now in a position to widely scale. We toured his wine facility and learned first hand how critical a commitment to technical due diligence is from the winemaker to the bartender to ensure wine on tap leaves a lasting impression.

N2 Wines Owner Jim Neal dispenses his '06 Cabernet Sauvignon right from the tap

Neal proved that kegging delicious, premium wines is the easy part because we tried them, right from the keg. It’s getting the wine from the keg into the glass where wine on tap meets its biggest challenge. His and partner winemaker Jeff Hunsaker’s 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon is rich and spicy with well-balanced tannins and hints of blackberries. Their 2009 Chardonnay has a nose of subtle vanillas and finishes with crisp, clean fruit. And their 2010 Chardonnay still in the tank is beautifully floral, finishing with perfectly balanced hints of oak and butter. These wines can taste drastically different from one bar or restaurant to the next, though, if proper tapping procedures are not followed.

Mediocre system installations and poor keg line maintenance are the largest culprits to a poor wine on tap experience. To name a few, if keg lines are not kept clean, wine will pick up residue and affect the wine as it is dispensed into the glass. If tubing used from the keg to the tap is oxygen permeable, it will cause air to leak in and oxidize the wine. If wine is kegged and tapped without 304 stainless steel components, the wine’s acidity will corrode the steel and ruin the wine. Furthermore, if kegs are pressurized without the precise mix of nitrogen and a hint of carbon dioxide to balance the natural Co2 in wine itself, the wine will deteriorate slightly in the keg, losing the freshness and aromatic nuances that were in the wine at the time of packaging.

Neal has been experimenting with all of the wine on tap possibilities since 2005 for a technical combination that will sustain and complement the complexities of wine. Now that he’s found it, it is his goal to not only bolster the potential of wine on tap to scale but to also share his model as industry best practice. To do so, he’s continually testing and re-testing the model and developing vital partnerships.

A wine on tap system created by Wayne Burgstahler, owner of Burgstahler Machine Works

One of these partnerships is with Burgstahler Machine Works in St. Helena. Owner Wayne Burgstahler is designing some of the finest 304 stainless steel wine on tap valve systems. These valves, like the one pictured, provide the technical resilience needed for wine with 304 stainless steel while aesthetically complementing wines’ renowned reputation for elegance and class. With a growing waitlist for valve system orders, Burgstahler is one of many who can attest to the staying power of wine on tap.

In every major U.S. city, wine on tap is in at least a dozen restaurants, with new restaurants installing wine on tap systems every month. Because of the efforts of those like Neal, wine on tap is leaving not just a first impression but a permanent impression on the way we drink wine.

N2 wines kegged, tapped and ready for drinking.

Some wine on tap spots that Neal has helped establish and promise a great glass of wine are Salt House in San Francisco; Farmstead in St. Helena, CA; Southie in Oakland, CA; Rancho Pinot in Scottsdale, AZ; and others scattered across Texas, Colorado and Arizona. Neal is also working on installing a 10 tap system at Cindy Pawlcyn’s Brassica restaurant in St. Helena, scheduled to open in early September. Find out more about Jim Neal and N2 Wines on their website, www.n2wines.com.

Gotham Project taps the East Coast

The Gotham Project, the New York-based wine shop, is leading the wine on tap movement on the East Coast. Headed by Charles Bieler and Bruce Schnieder, both were featured in the New York Times recently for what they’re doing to bring the New York market to life with wine on tap. Bieler said, “We’re not just selling a concept; we’re selling a better glass of wine.” Read the NY Times article and learn more about them on their website.

Who’s doing it? Silvertap Wines is leading the tap

Silvertap Wines, located in our very own San Francisco and Sonoma, has been a pioneering force in the industry to get wine on tap moving in the United States. When I see wine on tap in any restaurant or bar, I generally see a Silvertap wine on the menu. Read a little more about their take on where wine on tap is heading below.

Tap dancing (excerpt from It Takes Two, April 2011)

Another fast-growing wine marketing trend in America is the move to wines on tap in restaurants, foregoing the traditional bottle. On the forefront of the revolution is Silvertap Wines of Sonoma, which markets premium wines exclusively in five-gallon barrels.

“It’s really not a new idea,” says Greg Quinn, one of the founders and the managing partner in charge of operations for Silvertap. “Wine on tap has been in Europe for hundreds of years. People keep their jugs at home and go get their wine straight from the barrel. It takes the bottle out of the middle of the equation and promotes a communal feel.”

The name Silvertap was selected because “the concept straddles the line between the beer industry and the wine industry, and ‘Silvertap’ expresses both,” Quinn explains. He notes that Anheuser Busch actually tried to promote wine from taps in the 1970s, but “used a wine of questionable character at a time when people weren’t big wine consumers,” so the experiment failed.

Quinn’s personal experience in the restaurant business, which spans 18 years, led him to the idea for Silvertap.

“Serving wine by the glass out of a bottle isn’t efficient. The bottle sits open and the wine is compromised. Plus, there’s corked wine and bottle variation,” he says. And then there are all the wine bottles, which create trash problems and are “effectively worthless.”

Looking for a greener alternative, Quinn, who was managing Annabelle’s Bar & Bistro in San Francisco at the time, contacted his friend Dan Donahoe, whose family owned Teira Wines in Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley.

“I told him I wanted to get wine in a keg and serve it in a new way. He thought I was out of my mind. Then a couple of weeks later, a gentleman from Georgia named Todd Rushing, who had served 42 wines on tap for more than six years at his restaurant Two Urban Licks, reached out to Dan and asked if he could send kegs for Teira Winery to fill and return to him. So it was the second time he’d heard the idea in two weeks,” Quinn laughs. “Then Dan spoke with Jordan Kivelstadt, a winemaker who’d been in Argentina and had seen wine on tap. That was it. Having heard it three times within a month, Dan warmed to the keg concept. A few months later, Dan, Jordan and I founded Silvertap.”

Silvertap’s portfolio currently consists of Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Merlot, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, crafted from fruit grown in sustainably farmed vineyards in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Russian River Valley appellations. The wine is made at Dry Creek Vineyard in Healdsburg under the watchful eye of consulting winemaker Bill Knuttel. Once finished, the wine is transported to Silvertap’s Winery on Stage Gulch Road in Sonoma, where it’s stored and then put into kegs as orders flow in.

Wine on tap “works just like the beer industry,” Quinn says, except the kegs are typically smaller (five gallons). The wine also flows through a different type of line that uses nitrogen gas rather than carbon dioxide. “Other than that, every part of the system is the same as if you were serving beer on tap,” he explains.

Silvertap sees itself not only as a wine supplier to restaurants, but also a partner in helping eating establishments increase profit margins while reducing their carbon footprint. They now have clients in 19 states and are gaining traction in top hotel chains, including Kimpton and Starwood properties.

Annual production is currently between 8,000 to 10,000 kegs. Each keg holds the equivalent of 26 bottles of wine. Quinn estimates a restaurant will save approximately $2.50 on each “bottle” of wine in the keg. There’s no packaging, no heavy shipping fees and a lower distributor markup. Right now, Silvertap is partnering solely with restaurants but is looking into possibly producing smaller kegs for retail sale.

Quinn says tap wines have been warmly received, except for a few “traditionalists and sticklers” they’ve run across. “I’ve always hated the snootiness of wine, and the attitude of people who are against tap wine is more for snob reasons. There’s not a lot of merit to it.

“The bottom line is, people should have wine on the table, and people can’t afford expensive wine all the time,” Quinn says. Silvertap is delivering a top-quality wine at a lesser price, “and it’s really turning lots of people on. We see folks ordering a second carafe of wine more often than we see people buying a second bottle of wine.”

In the end, that’s what it’s all about. The more wine sells, the more strategic marketing partnerships make sense—and cents.